How to remove and replace the drum gasket on the Frigidaire/Kenmore Front Load Washer with notes on tub bearing replacement and inner tub replacement. - PDF

Please download to get full document.

View again

of 11
All materials on our website are shared by users. If you have any questions about copyright issues, please report us to resolve them. We are always happy to assist you.
Information Report



Views: 11 | Pages: 11

Extension: PDF | Download: 0

Related documents
How to remove and replace the drum gasket on the Frigidaire/Kenmore Front Load Washer with notes on tub bearing replacement and inner tub replacement. Here is what I did (I am printing a copy of this and
How to remove and replace the drum gasket on the Frigidaire/Kenmore Front Load Washer with notes on tub bearing replacement and inner tub replacement. Here is what I did (I am printing a copy of this and placing in the bag where the electrical diagram goes, for me for future use. 0. UNPLUG WASHER!!! 1. Pull top off. I have front controls, so the screws on the back allow the whole top to come off easily. Pull kick panel. Remove back panel. 2. Loosen two screws that hold weight on back half and slide out wieght. Leave screw on drum 3. Remove drive belt. Cut zip tie, unplug motor and leave wiring in the bottom of the washer. Remove 4 screws that hold on motor and remove motor. 4. On front right, loosen screw and remove rubber drain from tub. Squeeze large snap ring and remove water level sensor (Thing that looks like an old fuel filter) from rubber drain also. Remove little hose from top of water level sensor also. (NOTE: You can also disconnect the level sensor hose at the top of the washer. This will make it easier to re-connect, however you'll need to be careful that you do not damage the hose when you remove the tub assembly). Sensor will be removed WITH the drum. I pushed the level sensor out from the back where it clips into the drum, this way I did not have to disconnect the small hose 4a. At this point, you might want to remove the control board and pump motor. Each is secured by 2 screws and are easily removed. This will prevent accidental damage and give you more room inside the washer to work with. There are 2 connectors on the control board and 1 on the pump motor be sure to remove those first. 5. On shocks, push one lock area to allow the pint to be slid out of the tub and the shock will be free from the drum. Push pins through to the rear and remove. Will now be hanging from the springs. These shock pins were stubborn, I squeezed the lock pin down and pushed with pliers in from the front, then pulled from the back the rest of the way out. 6. From top, slide out what looks like overflow tube from holder. Leave tube attached to the drum. Place support under drum. I used 2 5 qt. Ice cream pails, but they may be a bit light for the job. 7. From front, go though glass opening. Drum will be hanging a bit funny, with the bottom swinging away from the front. From opening, start at bottom and pull rubber boot off of drum. Work around to the top. boot spring came off during this process. Best to do this, even though boot will be removed from washer later, because the spring clip on the water fill area needs to be removed from the boot and that is easier to do after the drum is removed. 8. Drum should just be hanging from 2 large springs. Loosen and turn clip that goes over the top of the springs so they can be lifted and removed from the washer. Start on either side, lift spring, move toward center and lower to disconnect drum from the frame. Completely remove spring. Repeat on the other side. Drum should now be sitting on ice cream pails (supports). 9. From above, lift drum and slide out the rear. 10. Lay drum on front face and start to remove screws that hold halves together. Once all screws are out, the back half with pulley (top half if sitting on face) easily lifts up from the other half. 11. Remove and replace tub seal. New seal is thicker than old one... My drum had some excess plastic flashing on the bottom compared to the top, I am not sure if this caused the 2 halves not to seat well together. I removed the flashing with an exacto knife. My washer was leak free for the first 1 ½ years so I do not think the flashing was the root cause of the leak. Tough for me to measure a big difference in seal thickness considering old seal has been compressed for 1 ½ years. 12. Carefully remove rubber boot from front. From above, remove spring clip that holds boot to water filler tube. Clean seal Assembly. 13. I had to remove the front weights also to get a clear shot at the lip to get the from boot back on. Remove screws and round metal clip/guide. 14. Without spring in boot, line up UP pointer and re-install boot to drum. Then pull spring back into groove on boot. 15. Re-install front weights and metal thing. 16. Place supports in bottom of washer(ice cream pails). Lift and slide drum back into place on top of supports(ice cream pails). 17. Had a %$#%& of a time getting water fill tube spring clip back on. Helped to install drum support springs (big ones on top) and temporarily hang drum one hole to the rear to allow a little clearance in the front. Then use 2 vice-grips, replace spring clip by going through the front glass opening. Worst part of re-assembly Move springs to correct holes on top. Install safety clips back over springs. 19. Front assembly reverse of disassembly. 20. Back and Motor assemble reverse of disassembly. 21. Finally, pull boot over the front of washer. Don't do this until drum is in fully, or the boot might not end up on straight and might pucker a bit. 22. Put on back and top. 23. Run load, check for leaks. Note: back is structural and must be on for a load to be run. 24. Should be done. Total time 3 hours+. I hope this helps anyone who has to get into the Frigidaire front loader and replace the seal. The rear bearing should be serviceable from that point also??? Bearing and Seal notes: This is from a bearing specialist that replaced just the bearings on his washer, saving over $150 versus buying the entire back half of the tub that is sold by the manufacturer with the bearings intact. The inboard bearing is a RS. The outboard was a RS. I haven't taken a caliper to the seal but I don't think it's anything special, just make sure it's a good quality double lip seal. I'm going to try to get a rubber coated one too for addition water resistance. If you live in the Seattle area, go to US Bearings and Drives for some SKF bearings (a RSC3 and RSC3) 40x80x10DL metric seal RS bearing (inboard) RS bearing (outboard) Tips for removal / replacement of inner tub 1. After removing the back panel and drive belt, remove the pulley from the shaft. The bolt is removed easily, but I had to gently pry around the base of the pulley to remove it (unless you have a puller). The pulley is very light and the metal is soft, so be very careful that you do not damage or bend it while prying. 2. The inner tub will lift out easily ounce you have split the outer drum halves. 3. Remove the 3 tumbling vanes from the old inner tub. The new tub will not include these, so you'll need to reinstall the old ones. They are held on by one or to screws each. 4. The inner tub has a 25 year warrenty on it, but Electrolux will not honor this if the work is not being done by an authorized service dealer. I found a dealer that would order one for me however, and all they charged me was shipping ($18). Inner tub removed Inner tub Cracked Support New tub notice how suuport is attached (no welds)
We Need Your Support
Thank you for visiting our website and your interest in our free products and services. We are nonprofit website to share and download documents. To the running of this website, we need your help to support us.

Thanks to everyone for your continued support.

No, Thanks